Aristocrat

History

Built by I.B. Perch Company in Morgan Hill, Ca, Weiser, ID

1956-1974

Irving Perch manufactured Aristocrat trailers in California from 1956 to 1974. The Lo Liner model was called that because one could purchase optional metal wheels to install when storage in a low garage was desired. These smaller wheels lowered the height, as well as the unique “drop axle”. The Lo Liner was sold as a 13′ and a 15′ trailer back then, but licensed as 16′, as the nearest measurement from hitch to tail. Perch also manufactured a Mainliner, Land Commander, Hi Liner, Lil Loafer, Travelier, Classic, Landmark, Land Liner, Land Star, American Clipper Motor Homes, the Pick-up Partner and an 8 ft RV called “the bug”. The exterior of the Lo-Liner was notable for the large windows on all sides of the trailer. The trailers were extremely well-built with aircraft construction techniques,(metal I beams) and many are still on the road all over North America.

Irv Perlitch (Perch) made his fortune by founding Aristocrat Travel Trailer after moving to Morgan Hill in 1957. Mr. Perch collected unusual antiques such as a 1929 Ford Tri-motor, the first commercial passenger plane to make coast-to-coast flights. In 1969, he sold his successful trailer business to begin work on a 200 acre family resort in Morgan Hill, CA. It was home to his museums of antique cars and airplanes and where he built his Flying Lady Restaurants.

Irv Perlitch passed away April 30, 2008.

Manufacturer Information

Aristocrats were manufactured in Morgan Hill CA. The Lil Loafer (Aristocrat) was made in Weiser, Idaho. Another factory was begun in the East, possibly Indiana, circa 1969.

Canadian travel trailers manufactured in 2 locations. Contact Parts Department for availability of parts:

West: General Coach PO Box 700, 9316 – 348 Avenue, Oliver, BC V0H 1T0 Canada Telephone: 250-498-3471 www.generalcoach.bc.ca

East: General Coach 73 Mill Street, Hensall, On N0M 1×0 Telephone: 519-262-2600 www.generalcoach.on.ca

Models

Lo-Liner – unique because it could fit into a standard garage with special tires
Hi-Liner
Land Commander
Li’l Loafer
Mainliner
Lo-Liner
Travelier
Land Commander
Land Liner
Land Star

Standard Features

13′ Li’l Loafer: Small trailer with higher profile than Lo Liner 13′. Features bunk above sink.

13′ Loliner: 1300 lbs. Propane oven and stove. Icebox.

14′ Travelier: 1680 lbs. sleeps 6. Electric brakes. propane oven and stove, icebox (propane fridge optional)

15′ Loliner: 1800 lbs. Hitch wt 225 lbs. Sleeps 6. Electric brakes. Propane oven and stove. Icebox (propane fridge optional).

15′ Mainliner: Similar to 15′ Loliner, nothing like the 16“ Mainliner. Private toilet area.

16′ Mainliner: 2000 lbs. Hitch wt 225 lbs. Sleeps 6 with Rear Bunk. Propane oven and stove, icebox (propane fridge optional) Porta-potty shelf in closet. Electric brakes.

17′ S-T LoLiner: 2550 lbs. Hitch wt 300 lbs. Sleeps 4 (six with optional bunk). Propane oven, stove and fridge. Fiberglass shower and recirculating toilet.

18′ Land Commander: 2050 – 2250 lbs. Hitch wt 225 lbs. Sleeps 6 (8 with optional bunk). Propane oven, stove and fridge. Enclosed toilet area option.

20′ Land Liner: 2100 lbs. Hitch wt 300 lbs. Sleeps 4-6 depending on options. Electric brakes. Propane oven, stove and fridge. Space heater. Complete bathroom with shower, toilet and sink.

24′ Classic: 4700 lbs. Electric brakes, propane oven with broiler, stove, refrigerator, wall heater, bathroom with shower, two twin beds plus bed in dinette, double doored closet, tons of cabinet space, a rare model.

Unique features/Options

Aristocrat trailers had a unique feature of note for vintage restoration. The electrical connector to the tow vehicle is a 6-pin round connector with the ground and 12V positions reversed from most trailers and tow vehicles. Have the wiring system tested before using it the first time.

An Aristocrat accessory- a wheel lowering attachment that allowed the trailer to be lowered by replacing the tires with these steel wheels. This allowed the trailers overall height to drop, facilitating garage storage.

“You’re following an Aristocrat” embossed on the a black and white plastic piece on the back of the trailer

Prices

16 ft. 1967 Aristocrat (pictured in photos section) sold for $800 in 2006 (new were about $1600)
16 ft. 1966 Aristocrat Mainliner bought in Tacoma, WA in ROUGH condition for $350 in Oct, 2008 (See rebuild and pictures below.)
17 ft. 1966 Aristocrat travel trailer in California advertised for $1200 in 2006
17 ft. 1968 Aristocrat Trailer in California sold for $800 in Jan, 2007

1969 Aristocrat Lo-Liner Trailer in California bought for $500 in Mar, 2010

Pictures

1965 Aristocrat Mainliner It’s a very good example of an almost original Mainliner. There are not many of them around – owner Alex Alexander

1965 Aristocrat Mainliner – Original windows, baby moons, step, bumper, paint job, and running lights. Reproduction emblems.

1965 Aristocrat Mainliner – trailer box is 12′ with a 15′ length overall Original stone shield. Reproduction awning and badges.

1965 Aristocrat Mainliner – Original paneling, quilted backsplash, upholstery, stove, windows and wall sconce. New curtains & pillows. Gas lamp over stove & bunk bed over couch are partially missing.

1965 Aristocrat Mainliner – Original paneling, countertops, flooring, sink, upholstery, ice box, table, paper towel holder, windows and wall sconces.

Aristocrat Caravaners emblem (designed from the original)

Reproduction Aristocrat “You’re Following” Badge for the rear of the trailer

Small reproduction iB Perch Aristocrat badge goes beside the front door over the grab handle.

1965 Aristocrat Travelier

1965 16′ Mainliner

1965 Aristocrat Land Commander

1966 16ft Aristocrat Mainliner (factory exterior and modernized interior)

1966 15ft Aristocrat Mainliner

1966 15ft Aristocrat Loliner (Exterior and Interior)

1966 Aristocrat Land Commander; Exterior & Interior

1967 16′ Aristocrat Lo Liner

1967 Aristocrat Land Liner

1971 Aristocrat Loliner

1971 Aristocrat Lo Liner

1972 Aristocrat Lo Liner

1972 Aristocrat Landstar

Original paneling, wallpaper, countertops, flooring, sink, refrigerator, harvest gold stove, paper towel holder, windows, wall sconces, Spacesaver bathroom with murphy toilet and white/black ‘campers’ motif. The 1973 Landstar has avocado green appliances and a multi-color floral motif in the bathroom.

1973 Aristocrat Lo Liner

Some owners

Ryan & Linda Frizzell, toledo ,Oh. Curently restoring 1967 aristocrat, 10′ Lil Loafer.

Alex Alexander, DeFuniak Springs, FL. Owner of 1965 Aristocrat Mainliner 15-6.

Clubs/Links

Rebuild, restoration and modernization of a 1966 15.5(16)ft MainlinerShown above

Nice Restoration set of ’67 Land Commander

Modernization of ’70 Lo Liner 17′

Elvis’ Aristocrat!!!

Aristocrat Owners Forum on Yahoo Connect with other owners and share photos of your Aristocrat trailers.

Aristocrat Owners Forum on Ipernity Connect with other owners and share photos of your Aristocrat trailers. Create your own personal site.

Aristocrat Vintage Trailers on Pinterest See photos of the different Aristocrat models and more about Aristocrat trailers.

Repairing Yesterday’s Trailers on Yuku (Old Vintage Vacations Board from MSN)

Vintage Trailer Supply Great Source for hard to find replacement parts.

Rebuilding an Axle

www.cannedhamdecals.com |Aristocrat decals and emblems for restoration.

Aristocrat Frequently Asked Questions

Where is my VIN number? What does it mean?
1. It should be on the tongue of the trailer, topside, curb side.
2. How do I decode it?
3. One of the formats is (R)RRR T LLL S SSSS
4. (R)RRR= 3 or 4 digit Aristocrat Registration number.
5. T=Type of Aristocrat Trailer
  1. C or S = Lo-Liner
  2. A=Main-Liner
  3. J=Land-Liner
  4. G=Land-Commander
  5. ?=Lil-Loafer

*Sadly, this letter scheme has proved to be incorrect as many times as it is correct; so proceed with skepticism.

1. LLL=Length (i.e. 157 = 15ft 7in)
2. S SSSS = Your serial number.
3. Kristen Fenner Damazio Mine says 2371 17 STL 9 13120 It’s a 1968 17′ STL Lo-Liner
4. Annette Arneson Format A 16 7 1752 is a Mainliner, 16ft, 1957, #1752 It is believed that the 7 indicates the year, production started in 1956 and they used a single digit to represent year; not knowing they would span decades of production.

How else can I identify my trailer?

How do I service my wheel bearings?
1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akh0WhkudrM
2. Bearing and Seal P/N’s for 4×4.5 and 5×4.5 pattern hubs are PROBABLY:
  
  Yes, all on Amazon.Com

Inner Bearing: Timken LM48548 or Bower LM48549 ‘
Inner Race: Timken LM48510’
AKA Timkin “SET5”, which is a Timkin Part Number (need 2 per axle)

Outer Bearing: Timken M12649 or Bower M12649 ‘
Outer Race: Timken M12610
AKA Timkin “SET3”, which is a Timkin Part Number (need 2 per axle).

Seal: 2M – HADCO – 3077 (original hadco 10” axle seal) or AE2592N or CH17404 or 1105-100-031 or 168255TB (which is a superior double-lip seal) (need 2 per axle)

https://www.etrailer.com/p-1105-100-031.html

Reference Information:
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Documents/BSAC1989andOlder7391.pdf

https://www.ahrinternational.com/PDF_catalogues/Timken/BSAC1989andOlder7391.pdf

http://bearingfinder.ntnamericas.com/

http://www.etrailer.com/c-bearings.htm

PLEASE NOTE: The above information may not apply to your trailer; there were various manufacturing changes during production, and many axle-swaps occurring during and after production. This information should be regarded as UNVERIFIED reference information only.

1. Bearing and Seal P/N’s for 4×9.44 pattern hubs are ______________________________.

My lugs seem short. Can I install new lugs?
1. Yes. However before you proceed, realize the hubs need to be handled CAREFULLY, so don’t go crazy with a sledge hammer to remove the studs. The hubs are obsolete.
2. For 4×4.5” pattern hubs,
  1. DORMAN 610-085 is a direct replacement stud.
  2. DORMAN 611-016 is a direct replacement lug nut.
What is the lug pattern for my Aristocrat trailer?
1. Common 4-lug small pattern is 4×4.5”
2. Common 5-lug pattern is 5×4.5” and used today (wheels are everywhere).
3. The vintage large 4-lug pattern is 4×9.44”
Where do I get wheels?
1. Early Ford Falcon and 6cyl Ford Mustangs had 13 and 14” wheels with a 4×4.5” pattern and 4” backspace for ½” lugs. They accept a 9” baby moon wheel cover (like stock) available from Etrailer.com.
2. 4×4.5” wheels in 3.5 and 3” backspace are available from Wheel Vintiques as well as Coker Tire.
3. Beware of stud size when shopping junk yards. Some 4×4.5” wheels are intended for use with 9/16” studs, which can lead to lug-nut bottoming and loose wheels.
4. ALWAYS check and confirm internal clearances. Pay special attention to the front grease fitting to sidewall clearance. In my ‘64, a poor tire/wheel choice would lead to catastrophic failure on the road due to this.
5. 5×4.5” trailer wheels can be had anywhere.
6. 5×4.5” wheels that accept the Aristocrat 9” baby moon wheel caps are harder to find and can be found on some 1957-1964 ford V8 cars.
7. 4×9.44” vintage trailer wheels are branded “dexstar” by etrailer.com and available.

The coil spring on my torsion axle broke? Can I replace it?
1. Wayne Anderson engineered a solution as follows.
2. Replaced his entire axle assembly with the following:
  The Axle came from TJ Trailers, Ogden, UT. 2200Lb Axle, 48″ outside frame width, 65″ Hub to Hub, 22.5deg down-angle version. The 13′ wheels from Summit Racing 5 lug, 4.5″ circle, 2.75″ Backspace
3. http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/2-200-lb-torsion-axles-details.html
4. The new axle flanges were welded to the original Arisrocrat trailer frame. Not a bolt-on.

How do I repair a broken window slat in my Jalouse window?
1. Most window glass can be replaced by just removing the little round rubber buttons that hold the glass in. Once the buttons are out, the glass has clearance to come out and the replacement slid in. Replace with new buttons; source below.
  1. http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Jalousie-Window-Discs-p/vts-171.htm
2. Option B, or to replace broken slat holder assembly:
  1. Close the window and remove the window from the trailer.
  2. Lay the window down on an old blanket.
  3. Remove one end of the aluminum window frame (4 screws, sometimes “clutch head”) and the glass panes will fall free. (hence the blanket)
  4. Replace the pane(s)
  5. Reassemble and install.
  6. DO NOT BEND THE ALUMINUM TABS to try to replace the glass without removing the window, they will likely break.
How do I free a stuck Jalouse window?
1. Do not force the crank handle.
2. Lubricate all hinge points from the inside with silicone spray lube.
3. Work the mechanism slowly and gently with the crank handle and by applying light pressure/coaxing near the pivot points. Do not pry on the slats or on the ends of the aluminum retaining tabs, they will break. It will eventually begin to move. Repeat with lube, wiggling, and time.
4. Once the mechanism is free, wipe up the black oxide (it is abrasive and is why the mechanism is hard to move) and lube it some more. Keep working it until it moves freely and stops shedding oxide. Once it begins to move, this will happen quickly.
Where do I find a water tank for my Aristocrat?
1. For a ‘64 Aristocrat gravity-feed tank P/N T161 is a great fit. It is possible to install a bulkhead fitting with a 1” back-nut through the filler hole, making it unnecessary to cut a service hatch in the tank. http://www.lavanture.com/pdfs/specials/T2107D_LPC_WaterTanks_FLYER.pdf
What does it weigh?
1. http://www.tincantourists.com/wiki/doku.php?id=aristocrat
Do I need trailer brakes?
1. In California, all trailers over 1500lbs legally are required to have trailer brakes.
2. This topic is like religion to some folks; opinions will vary widely. Adding trailer brakes to a trailer is unlikely to hurt unless you are relying on trailer brakes as the sole means to be able to safely stop. I recommend that you do not tow a heavy trailer with a light car that can only stop reliably if the trailer brakes work. If they come unplugged, you would be in a very dangerous situation. For all other circumstances, trailer brakes are always a towing safety improvement.
What size tow ball do I need to tow my aristocrat.
1. MAKE NO ASSUMPTIONS. In 40+ years time, the coupler could have been changed.
2. MOST have 2” ball hitch couplers. Some have 2 5/16”.
3. If you put a 2 5/16” coupler onto a 2” ball, it is possible to get down the road hundreds (if not thousands) of miles with a time bomb on your hands. MAKE SURE you have the right coupler and ball mated.
4. To check fit, use the tongue jack on the trailer. Connect the trailer to the ball, engage the latch, then as you lower and lift the trailer tongue with the tongue jack, feel and inspect the mating fit between the ball and coupler. If there is excessive play in this area; you have the wrong parts or worn out parts and should have it serviced/inspected/replaced.

Safety Chains
1. Through-bolt them to the tongue. Use at least two independent ⅜” welded link chains that are individually bolted through the tongue steel and attached to the tow vehicle with an attachment method that can support the full tow weight of the trailer should it come detached.
2. If the tow chains are welded to the frame, question the integrity of the welds if they look like they were done by an amateur. Test the connection with a large hammer to make sure they are solid, or cut them off and through-bolt them to the frame. Amateur welds often fail when tested with extreme forces like they’d experience if the trailer came off the ball at speed. A detached trailer can be a lethal event to you and others.
3. S hooks made from bent wire at the vehicle attachment point are of questionable value. I’ve seen them “pulled straight” and detached. Cast/forged hooks with closure clasps, or removable chain links with a high test value are preferred.

12V Electrical “House Power” provided by an on-board battery.
1. Always fuse the battery before it connects to anything else in the trailer.
2. If using a fuse panel, and if it is possible to keep the distance between the fuse panel and the battery short, it is acceptable (and practical) to not install a fuse between the fuse panel and the battery, and let the fuse panel do the fusing of the branch circuits.
3. Choose a fuse value that is 1.25 to 2X the required current of the system being powered. I.E. 4-5A for a water pump, 1A for an LED light, etc.
4. Be aware that normal lead-acid batteries outgas hydrogen during charging. Batteries should be in a vented location.
5. Be aware that malfunctioning and/or bouncing lead-acid batteries can leak battery acid. Batteries should be contained in some fashion so this acid can’t reach your trailer.
6. Be aware that trailers have no shocks, and bounce quite a bit. Strap batteries down so they don’t come loose or fall over.
DC Power, Batteries, Capacity, and Solar. (coffee pot, toaster).
1. The basics. When we talk about electricity, there are a few terms needed. Voltage (Volts), Current (Amps), Amp-Hours (Capacity) and Watts (Power).
  1. Volts: This is pressure, like water pressure. Typically trailers have 12 volt systems, so that’s what we will assume. Volts =12V.
  2. Current: This is volume, again like water. Think of it as how much flow is needed. Measured in Amps. A typical water pump requires 3-4 amps of current. An LED light requires about ½A to 1A of current. Jump starting a car requires hundreds of amps of current.
  3. Amp-Hours (Ah): The amount of power stored in a battery is based on the Amp-Hour rating. How many amps, for how many hours. A 10 amp-hour battery can provide 1 amp for 10 hours. It can also provide 10 amps for 1 hour. It’s a little more complicated than this when the current gets high, but this will suffice for understanding the ratings.
  4. Watts: This is “power”. It is Volts*Amps, or in our case 12*Amps. A 3 amp consuming water pump requires 36 watts to operate. Appliances sometimes express power consumption in watts. You can get back to amps by dividing by 12.
2. Sizing your battery. Making a power budget. In order to size a battery for a power system in a small trailer, it is a good idea to take a look at what appliances you intend to power, and for how long, and for how many days between recharging. Here’s an example.
  1. Cell Phone Recharging – 1 amp for 2 hours a day. (2Ah)
  2. Water pump – 3 amps for 10 minutes a day. (0.5Ah)
  3. Lights – 2 amps for 4 hours a day. (6Ah)
  4. Amp-hours per day required: 8.5
  5. Days before recharge 5 (5 day max trip, charged before leaving)
  6. Battery capacity required 42.5 Ah; shop for a 40+ amp-hour battery. A typical 12V deep cycle marine battery would be fine for this. There are many options available in both sealed and conventional battery designs.
3. Power hungry appliance example.
  1. Let’s add a single power hungry appliance to the above example. For example, a 12V coffee maker like this one: http://www.roadtrucker.com/power-hunt-appliances/12-volt-high-performance-personal-coffee-maker.htm
  2. The specs say 12V, 25A, 3 minutes to make a single cup of coffee.
  3. Amp-Hours = 25A*(3/60)h = 1.25Ah.
  4. 10 cups of coffee in 5 days = 12.5Ah.
  5. You now need a 55Ah battery instead of a 42.5Ah battery as seen above.
  6. You also need to make sure that any power port that this 25A appliance could be plugged into is wired appropriately and fused appropriately for 25A. 10 gauge wire. 25A rated power plug.
4. Inverters. Making 120VAC from 12VDC. Yes, it’s possible. If you really want to run 120VAC appliances from a battery, you can use an inverter (converts battery power into 120VAC house power). Inverters are inefficient, you lose about 15-20% of every amp-hour consumed in the conversion. If you want to run a 1500watt household toaster off of an inverter, here is how the math works out.
  1. 1500 Watts = 12 Volts * 125 Amps.
  2. Time to toast = 3 minutes. (.05 Hours)
  3. Amp-Hours Required = 125*.05= 6.25Ah
  4. Inefficiency adjustment = 6.25Ah * 1.20 = 7.5Ah (actual, with inverter losses)
  5. Wire gauge required between battery and inverter = LARGE (see table below); like jumper cables in some cases.
  6. Power budget for a 5 day trip for toast for one person = 37.5Ah; another marine battery just for toast. Propane is looking like a good option.
5. A solar panel on the roof of your trailer can greatly extend your time between plug-in recharge, and in some cases it can completely negate your need to plug in. I recommend using a charge controller between the solar panel and the battery if you install anything larger than a 25 watt solar panel. The reason for this is the potential for over-charging the battery. It will eventually destroy it. Here’s an example of a solar panel installation.
  1. Install 75watt solar panel on the roof (2×3 feet, roughly)
  2. Install charge controller box between panel and battery to regulate charging and not over-charge.
  3. In full sun/ideal conditions, 75 watt panel will deliver (75W/12V)= 6.25 Amps when the sun is on it. Assuming you don’t aim it, you can count on about half that number; let’s call it 3 Amps. In reality, with variable shade and so on…probably even less than that.
  4. If you have sun for 12 hours a day (on average) and partial sun/shade situations (forest), you will see about 12h*1.5A = 18Ah a day of capacity returning to your batteries. That is more than twice what is needed to fully recharge the battery in the first “Sizing Your Battery” example above. You can now camp indefinitely, and don’t need to plug in. Furthermore, you don’t need a battery that can hold 5 days worth of charge; you could cut the battery size and weight in half and still have plenty of reserve.

Wiring and Fuses.
1. My trailer has no wiring at all, or I intend to rewire it completely. What should it look like?
2. Wiring in the trailer needs to be large enough to support the current being supplied to the appliance. Fuses need to be on every branch, and need ratings that are lower than the maximum current rating of the wire to prevent the wire from heating and potentially burning.
3. Short circuits, Electrical Fire, and how to avoid it. Everyone should understand that current through a wire = heat in that wire. If the current is small enough and the wire is big enough (in diameter) and short enough (in length), the heat is not a problem in normal use. Here is an example of how fuses and wire gauge is important.
  1. You install a 12V power port intended for use for your cell phone charging needs. You need 2 Amps, max. Looking at the above table, and seeing that 20A can be supplied through 12ga wire, you decide that you can run 24ga wire instead…and you found a table online that says it’s fine for 2A. It is. You run a 20ft run of 24ga wire from the battery to your power plug, and a 2ft run of 24ga wire from the power plug to the trailer chassis for ground. You do not install a fuse. Now, you’re camping and someone comes over with their new 12V fan and plugs it into your power port. It is drawing 10 amps. Your 10ft wire run between the battery and the fan is inside your wooden storage compartment where you are storing all manner of dry goods and combustibles. The 24ga wire heats, eventually melts the insulation, catches the insulation on fire, and ignites the contents of your storage compartment. Furthermore, while you’re trying to put the fire out, this wire is now a heating element that continues to reignite the fire until you figure out what the source of the problem is, or try to disconnect a red-hot wire with your bare hands, or by any means necessary. How to prevent this? A 3A fuse and a battery disconnect switch.
4. Battery Disconnect Switch. It’s a very good idea to insert a switch between the battery and the fuse panel so it can be easily disconnected in the event of unpredicted mishap. The switch and wiring must be large enough to handle the total current demands (amps) of the system. Often times, a switch like this is the simplest approach. Auto parts stores carry them.

Charging your RV/House Battery.
1. From plug-in 120V power: This is clearly the easiest approach. A small charger can be connected to the trailers 120V power system and then wired to the battery terminals for recharging. To recharge the battery, simply plug in to shore power.
2. From the tow vehicle: Generally not recommended. This is riddled with potential pitfalls. Fusing, wiring, tow vehicle capabilities, and so forth all vary from vehicle to vehicle.
  1. In some cases, the AUX terminal on the tow vehicle doesn’t exist, or has not been wired to the tow vehicle battery. In this case, there is no power available to charge the trailer battery.
  2. In some cases, the AUX terminal on the tow vehicle is capable of delivering in excess of 100A, and must be fused. The trouble with fusing is that a fully discharged house battery can draw 100A for the first few seconds of charging, and will blow the fuse when nothing is wrong.
  3. In some cases, tow vehicles have a nice protected AUX terminal with current regulation built in that regulates power to a reasonable (<20A) level.
  4. In some cases, the AUX terminal on the tow vehicle is directly connected to the tow vehicle battery…and if you leave the trailer plugged in when the engine on the tow vehicle isn’t running, it will drain the battery on the tow vehicle.
  5. Ideally, the trailer should have a current regulator between the battery and the tow vehicle that regulates charge current to a safe level. These devices are not commonly used, so they are hard to find. They do exist. Look for “DC to DC charger” or “Constant Current DC Charger” if you are determined to do this.
  6. For these reasons and more, I generally do not recommend recharging off of the tow vehicle. It is a complex prospect for a small trailer with limited need for such things.
3. From Solar: See the description of solar charging above. Often times, this will suffice with no need to plug the trailer in.
My trailer lights don’t work. How do I fix it?
1. The minimum wires needed to power trailer lights are:
  1. Ground.
  2. Brake/Turn Left.
  3. Brake/Turn Right.
  4. Running Lights.
2. Brake, Turn, and Running will have 12V when that respective circuit is powered. When Brake is on, both of the circuits have power. Brake and Turn share the same bulb and filament within that bulb (if it’s a multi-filament bulb).
3. Tools. At a minimum, you need a tow plug test tool to make sure your vehicle outputs are working correctly.
4. Example 7-way test plug:
5. Example 4-way test plug:
6. After the vehicle is verified working correctly, and you know what it takes to activate the left turn signal, connect the trailer to the vehicle and activate the left turn signal only.
  1. If it doesn’t work, remove the left tail lamp assembly from the trailer. Check connections. Physically remove the bulb and inspect the filament (you can see it). Check the terminals on the bulb and the cleanliness of the socket.
  2. If it still doesn’t work, it is time to check 2 (and only 2) connections on the plug. Check the wiring connections to pin 5 and pin 1.
    Or in the case of a 4-way plug, pins 1 and 3 (ground and left).
  3. If it still doesn’t work, Check to make sure that there is a wired connection between pin 1 and the trailer frame, and that the connection is clean and solid. The frame and skin of the trailer should be solidly connected to pin 1.
  4. If it still doesn’t work, One side of the left turn signal bulb should connect to the trailer skin or frame. The other side should connect to a wire that runs to the left turn signal pin. Ignore the third wire now (if there is one), that’s for running lights.
  5. Trace wires and keep focused on this 2-wire problem until it’s solved. Then, turn on the right turn signal and repeat the effort for the right side.
  6. Once both left and right work, BRAKE will work by default and you’re guaranteed that the ground is good moving forward. Try it.
  7. Finally, turn on the running lights and see if they work. If they do not, check the connection at the tow plug. (Pin 3 on 7-way, or Pin 2 (brown) on 4-way). Check to make sure the vehicle still works again with the test plug. It is possible to blow a fuse in the tow vehicle on this circuit if the circuit is shorted to ground/chassis/skin). If you blew a fuse, find and fix the fuse in the tow vehicle before proceeding further. The blinker circuit is naturally protected by the blinker device in the event of short circuit; that is why I prefer to start with blinkers when testing an unknown trailer. A short circuit on a blinker circuit will cause a rapid blinker action on the tow vehicle. If you see this, and have no blinker on the trailer, start looking for a short between the blinker pin and ground.
  8. If you blew a running light fuse, Pull all of the running lights from the trailer and expose the wires. Check all connections, sockets, bulbs for corrosion, shorts, frayed wires. Eliminate all running light bulbs except for one in one fixture and try again. Trace wiring if possible. Often times running light wiring is chained from one bulb to the next, and connected at the bulbs. In other words, there may be a short run of wire from the tow plug to a front light. Then, another short run of wire from that light to the next light, and so on. Chained. By disconnecting all of the wires, it is possible to isolate only the front lights, get the much working, then continue adding to the chain until you find the problem.

I just pulled into my campsite, opened the door on the power pole and I see this socket. What do I do?
1. That is a common 30A RV socket. To plug into a common 15A household extension cord, buy one of these. CAUTION: You are plugging into a socket capable of 30 amps. The cord you are using may be capable of no more than 15 amps. Do not power anything that requires more than 15 amps total through this cord, it is NOT safe to do so. If your trailer has a 15 or 20 amp breaker and you are powering EVERYTHING through this breaker, you are fine. Otherwise, proceed at your own risk.
  https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=Camco+55233

I just pulled into my campsite, opened the door on the power pole and I see this socket. What do I do?
1. That is a common 50A RV socket. Buy an adapter like this, then plug the adapter above into it. CAUTION: You are plugging into a socket capable of 50 amps. The cord you are using may be capable of no more than 15 amps. Do not power anything that requires more than 15 amps total through this cord, it is NOT safe to do so. If your trailer has a 15 or 20 amp breaker and you are powering EVERYTHING through this breaker, you are fine. Otherwise, proceed at your own risk.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Conntek+14315&oq=Conntek+14315&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60j69i61.919j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Garage Wheels, Lowering Wheels, Steel Wheels
Margaret Jensen Martan Heres the pics…dimensions are 11 5/8 od and 3 1/2″ deep.

Can you update the brakes on my Aristocrat?

Byron Reynolds You may be able to find a backing plate and brake assembly that will work on etrailer if the drums are good

Reply · September 6, 2016 at 2:12pm

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Ryan Dunlap ^ that’s where I got mine

Reply · September 6, 2016 at 2:14pm

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Byron Reynolds Would you be able to share part numbers so I can document them in the FAQ?

Reply · September 6, 2016 at 2:17pm

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Ryan Dunlap sure, let me find the receipt

Reply · September 6, 2016 at 2:18pm

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Ryan Dunlap Left: #23-468 Right:#23-469

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter-Axle/23-468-469.html

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter/23-468.html

10" Nev-R-Adjust Electric Brake Assembly for 3.5K Axles – LH Dexter Trailer Brakes 23-468

10″ x 2-1/4″ Driver’s-side electric trailer brake assembly fits 3,500-lb axles. Mounting flange has 4-bolt pattern. Lowest Prices for the best trailer brakes from Dexter. 10″ Nev-R-Adjust Electric Brake Assembly for 3.5K Axles – LH part number 23-468 can be ordered online at etrai…

ETRAILER.COMLike

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September 6, 2016 at 2:25pm

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Trey Shumard did you replace the drums too?

Reply · September 6, 2016 at 7:54pm

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Ryan Dunlap I had mine turned and then painted them black. Look like new

Reply · September 6, 2016 at 8:19pm

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Ryan Dunlap

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September 6, 2016 at 8:32pm

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Ryan Dunlap

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September 6, 2016 at 8:34pm

Where can I find a cover for my Aristocrat?

Jerry Fountain recommends…

RVCovers.com

1x ADCO 15’1″ to 18′ Travel Trailer Designer Tyvek Plus Wind RV Cover

23.

Some notes about common 3500# axle spindles that are NOT THE SAME as Aristocrat spindles. An aristocrat spindle has a D measurement of 0.8437” (21.43mm) and may also have a different B (axle seal) diameter.

Part No.

Capacity

Round/Square

R20384EZ

1750 lb

1.75

1.719

1.38

1.06

1.00

3.00

Round – E-Z Lube and Flge

ARISTOCRAT

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